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4. Goodyear Welt for machine sewing  

4.1 Goodyear process flow  

After finishing the hand stitch stitch process, let's explain Goodyear process.  Goodyear is one of the most callous words in the cargo shoe world, but most people get it wrong.  

Back in the days before the industrial revolution, shoemakers had to sew strips by Hand with tapered awls, the Hand Welt process just mentioned.  In 1871, just after the start of the Second Industrial Revolution, the U.S. Patent Office approved a patent on Goodyear's shoe-making technology.  A new sewing machine has been invented that can replace manual shoe removal for sewing inner thread.  The name of the man who invented it was Charles Goodyear.  Lord Goodyear was an American dark♂fa♂. He is known as the "father of rubber" for his invention of vulcanized rubber.  Today, the famous American rubber manufacturer Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company is also named after the great inventor.  Note, however, that Goodyear shoes are not affiliated with the company.  

Sir Charles Goodyear and the Goodyear shoe Machine  

Goodyear's process is to attach a canvas strip to the insole, which creates a ribbed structure similar to a hand-slotted one, and then machine the edge-vamp-insole sewing process.  Note that Goodyear machines only sew inside lines, not outside lines.  As early as 1856, Lyman Reed Blake had invented the Rapid Stitch Machine capable of sewing outside lines (Lyman Reed Blake was also the inventor of Blake process, another shoemaking process).  The appearance of Goodyear shoe machine greatly improved the production efficiency of shoes;  Along with vamp sewing machine and rapid Stitch sewing machine, shoemaking industry has been brought into the machine age and liberated manpower.  

Machine Goodyear sewing process  

The clear conclusion is that Goodyear Welt was designed to replace hand-stitched strips, and has been tied to machines since its birth.  Shoes that are hand-stitched by artisans can only be called hand welt, not Goodyear.  The so-called "manual Goodyear" is a self-contradictory pseudo-concept.  I don't know how this misnomer was invented and spread so widely that it had to be used by convention.  "Manual machine sewing strip", this live whole very good, is a little rotten, old contradiction writer.  

4.2 Talk about Hand Welt and Goodyear Welt  

Vague concepts give buyers endless imagination, and some sellers endless marketing space.  Write "All Hand stitched Goodyear" and guess whether it's hand stitched or machine stitched?  You asked him if the inside was hand-stitched or machine-stitched.  Gentle attitude but shit don't know customer service will tell you: "pro, our shoes are many years of experience master all handmade, solid stitches, wear ten years will not be bad!"  .  

This is not to say that machine stitching is necessarily inferior to manual stitching, but manual stitching does take more time to produce, and consumers have a right to know some of the technical details.  

Objectively speaking, the theoretical strength of the inner thread is higher by hand, while the Goodyear process is not as strong as hand sewing because the canvas strip is pasted on the inner sole.  For outside lines, the stitching will be more delicate and close, which is very important on some dress shoes.  Due to the space structure limitation of the outside line machine itself, the shoe welt stitched by the machine cannot be retracted inward, and the outer edge will be convex, forming the effect of a squared waist with a larger sole.  This is not a big problem on work boots, but a wide, protruding sole on more formal dress shoes is a violation.  In some dress shoes, the waist needs to be tightened, and the seams are hidden beneath the upper, a blind waist that can only be sewn by hand.  

A blind waist for a squared dress shoe  

Blind stitch effect  

5. High Edge: Storm Welt  

In the basic Goodyear process, the welt is not tight enough between the shoe body, so water can easily enter the gap when it rains.  This problem can be partially solved by using high edge strip instead of ordinary straight edge strip.  The high edge can be fitted more closely to the upper.  This can achieve better waterproof effect and can be worn even on rainy days, hence the name storm Welt.  The name sounds spooky, but the process is no different from Goodyear's.  

High edge strip with Storm Welt craft  

6. 3/4 strip and full strip  

White-soled boots such as the Redwing875 feature a 360-degree full-surround welt.  It is worth noting that not all boots will use 360° full surround welt. Some shoes with heels, such as Red Wing 8111, 901X, will use 3/4 welt in order to narrow the heel and look better. The leather surface and insole of the heel position are fixed with iron nails.  Some formal styles and Stitch Down designs also sometimes use 1/2 strips.  Nails are used to secure the body, waist and heel.  

Redwing9013 3/4 of the strip is fixed to the rear palm  

7. Fire melting process of Dr. Martens  

Finally, let's introduce the technique of Dr. Martens. Why are the Martin boots introduced separately?  Because there's something unique about the Goodyear process.  Dr. Martens' welt - vamp - insole is still held in place by stitching, using plastic welt.  It is also the use of plastic strip, for strip and outsole connection technology foreshadowing.  Note that the ripe-insole stitching is exposed this time and has some decorative effect.  (In fact, this kind of stitching is technically Norwegian sewing, which we will talk about later)  

The connection between strip and outsole of Dr. Martens does not use suture, but uses a high temperature metal probe to pass through the connection between strip and outsole, and then completes the "welding" through high temperature fusion. This process can be called "fire melting process".  To some extent, the plastic strip and rubber bottom together to form a stronger and more reliable than sewing.  

Melting process author: Dr. Marten's fire BUAA train man https://www.bilibili.com/read/cv10791503/ reference: bilibili based hand stitched welt process (hand told welt construction)  

Goodyear Welt (Machine sewing)  

High edge: Storm Welt  

3/4 strips and full strips  

Fire melting process by Dr. Martens  

Some ideas the author: BUAA train man https://www.bilibili.com/read/cv10791503/ reference: bilibili